How to Identify the Value of Antique Jewellery Using Hallmarks

How to Identify the Value of Antique Jewellery Using Hallmarks

30/05/2025     Latest News

If youre hoping to make money from an old jewellery collection, perhaps you are selling something on behalf of an elderly relative, or youve inherited some jewellery and are wondering how valuable it might be, hallmarks can tell you a great deal. From confirming the type and purity of metal to revealing a pieces age and even the identity of the original maker, these tiny stamps are one of the best ways to assess the potential value of antique jewellery. 

Understanding what those little symbols mean could be the difference between uncovering a hidden gem worth thousands or selling something far below its true market value. At Auctioneum, our expert valuers have put together this handy guide on how to start decoding hallmarks. You can also come along to one of our valuation days to find out more about your jewellery's value. 

What Are Hallmarks?

Hallmarks are official stamps applied to precious metal items, typically gold, silver, platinum, and palladium, to certify their purity and authenticity. In the UK, hallmarking has been a legal requirement for centuries, making British hallmarks some of the most detailed and trusted in the world.

A hallmark typically tells you:

  • The metal type and purity (e.g., 18ct gold or sterling silver)
  • The assay office where the item was tested and marked
  • The makers mark (the jeweller or manufacturer)
  • A date letter indicating the year the item was hallmarked

Understanding these marks is key to uncovering the story—and the value—behind vintage jewellery.

hallmark identification

Common British Hallmarks Explained

1. Metal Purity Marks

These marks indicate the precious metal content of the item. Look out for:

  • Gold: 375 (9ct), 585 (14ct), 750 (18ct), 916 (22ct), 999 (pure gold)
  • Silver: 925 (sterling silver), 958 (Britannia silver), 999 (fine silver)
  • Platinum: 850, 900, 950 (the higher the number, the purer the metal)
  • Palladium: 500, 950

The purity of the metal directly impacts value. For example, 18ct gold contains 75% pure gold, making it more valuable than 9ct gold, which contains just 37.5%.

2. Assay Office Marks

The UK has four main assay offices, each with its own identifying symbol:

  • London: Leopards Head
  • Birmingham: Anchor
  • Sheffield: Yorkshire Rose
  • Edinburgh: Castle

Older pieces may feature marks from now-closed assay offices such as Chester (closed in 1962) or Exeter (closed in 1883). Items bearing these marks can be particularly desirable to collectors due to their rarity and historical significance.

3. Makers Mark / Sponsor's Mark

This is usually a set of initials or a unique symbol identifying the maker or company. Some well-known makers—such as Asprey, Garrard, or Liberty & Co.—add significant value to a piece. Researching the makers mark can reveal whether your jewellery is from a famous designer or was produced by a more modest workshop. Either way, it adds an important chapter to the items story.

4. Date Letters

A single letter, often in a specific font and shape, represents the year the piece was hallmarked. Each assay office uses its own system, so identifying the date letter involves cross-referencing the letters style, shape, and the office mark.

For example, a lowercase hin a shield shape from the Birmingham Assay Office corresponds to the year 1907.

This small detail can make a big difference to value—an Edwardian-era piece from 1907 may command a much higher price than a near-identical design produced in the 1970s.

How Do Hallmarks Affect Value?

When it comes to antique or vintage jewellery, hallmarks do more than verify authenticity—they can substantially influence a pieces market value. Heres how:

  • Purity of Metal: Naturally, higher purity metals like 18ct gold or 950 platinum will command higher prices.
  • Rarity and Age: Jewellery from certain historical periods—such as the Victorian, Edwardian, or Art Deco eras—is highly sought after. Older items with marks from closed assay offices are often prized by collectors.
  • Makers Prestige: Pieces by renowned jewellers or workshops can dramatically increase in value. Even mass-produced items from famous makers can achieve impressive auction results.
  • Condition and Craftsmanship: While hallmarks provide vital information, the overall condition, design, and craftsmanship of the piece are equally important. Unusual designs and fine detailing often attract competitive bidding at auction.

jewellery hallmark identification

What to Do If You Think You Have Valuable Vintage Jewellery

If youve identified hallmarks on your jewellery and believe you may have something of value, its always worth seeking a professional valuation. An expert can confirm the authenticity of the marks, assess the items condition, and advise on the best way to sell it—whether privately, through a specialist jewellery auction, or by direct sale.

At Auctioneum, we regularly hold antique jewellery auctions across Bristol and Bath, helping clients achieve excellent results for their treasured items. Our valuation experts can guide you through the entire process—from identifying hallmarks and assessing value to presenting your jewellery to the right audience of buyers. You can also come along to one of our valuation days to find out more about your jewellery's value or book a valuation in Bristol or Bath here. 

Need Help Decoding Your Jewellerys Hallmarks?

If youre sitting on a forgotten jewellery box or wondering about the value of a family heirloom, dont leave it to chance. Contact Auctioneum for a free, no-obligation valuation, or visit one of our upcoming jewellery auctions to see first-hand how much your vintage jewellery could be worth.